INTRODUCTION
Most stains encountered on soiled garments and other articles will be removed in the washing treatment. The stains remaining after washing generally are of unknown origin, although long experience generally allows launderers to make judgements as to the basic character of the stain eg. grease or oil base, rust, mildew, etc. For these cases a suggested procedure has been outlined which explains step by step the way to remove an unknown stain. If the origin of the residual stain is known, suggested methods are given in the section dealing with types of stains and their removal.
GENERAL PROCEDURE FOR STAINS OF UNKNOWN ORIGIN
WARNING: CARE SHOULD BE TAKEN WHEN USING HAZARDOUS CHEMICALS SUCH AS RUST REMOVERS, TOLUENE AND BENZENE
CAUTION: DO NOT USE CHLORINE BLEACH OR ALKALINE SOLUTIONS ON SILK OR WOOL
If the stain can not be identified, then the following five step procedure should be adopted. This procedure should be carried out in the order given. It should, in most instances, remove the stain. Linen should be well rinsed out between steps.
The procedure should be as follows: -
a) Wash with a strong soap and alkali solution. Non-colourfast colours, silk and wool fabrics should be treated with a concentrated neutral soap solution.
b) Treat with an organic solvent such as acetone, alcohol, ether, etc. Test fabric to ensure that solvent does not affect either the fabric or colour.
c) Treat with a solution of sours such as sodium bifluoride, ammonium bifluoride or in the case of a small stain, treat with a laboratory grade hydrochloric acid solution.
d) Treat with a warm solution of a reducing or stripping agent such as sodium hydrosulphite or sodium bisulphate.
e) Treat with solution of an oxidising agent, such as sodium hypochlorite (liquid bleach) or hydrogen peroxide.
TYPES OF STAINS AND THEIR REMOVAL
AGE – These are stains that sometimes develop on old pieces of fabric that have been stored for a long period of time. They are usually light tan to a brown colour. If the article concerned is washable and the colour of the stain is not too heavy, it usually can be removed in the laundering process. Heavy stains usually require the use of an oxidising agent such as chlorine bleach solution, or potassium permanganate. Use these oxidising bleaches on white cotton, linen or synthetic fibres. Sodium hydrosulphite is recommended for white wool and silk.
ALBUMIN – Albuminous stains include egg, mayonnaise, blood discharges and similar substances, They may be washed from the fabric at low temperatures with soap and alkali, as in the breakwash. It is important not to use hot water in the removal of this type of stain. Most albuminous stains are removed during the washing process; however some albuminous stains may contain grease; if the grease is not completely removed, spot with an organic solvent such as dry-cleaning solvent or a volatile dry solvent. Digestors are extremely valuable for stubborn stains, but they do require a soaking period prior to washing. Enzymes will attack albuminous stains; after their chemical reaction, the stain is soluble and can be removed from the fabric. Enzymes work more effectively in a solution with a temperature in the 35 to 40 degrees celsius range.
ALKALI – Alkalis are commonly available as household lye, ammonia, paint remover, drain pipe cleaners and so forth. Alkalis of course are used in commercial laundries. Hot, strong alkali solutions will attack wool and silk and will very often damage or change colours. After a hot, strong alkali solution has damaged wool or silk fibre, there is no remedy or correction for this damage. However, many times colours can be affected or changed by alkalis and if the colour change is noticed soon enough, it can be neutralized with an acid solution that may restore the colour. The first step is to rinse thoroughly in plenty of water; the second step is to apply a solution of laundry sour to the colour until the fabric changes to it’s original shade. Solutions of acetic acid also can be used in the place of laundry sours. If laundry sours are used to neatralise alkalis, rinse thoroughly afterwards.
If acetic acid is used, it is not necessary to rinse the fabric as acetic acid evaporates and will not harm most fibres. Use a 28% solution of acetic acid. Stronger solutions of acetic acid damage acetate and triacetate and some other synthetic fibres.
Starch in combination with alkalis forms a rust-coloured stain at ironing temperatures. This stain is easily removed with a solution of any sour or by rewashing.
ARGYROL AND SILVER NITRATE – Argyrol is a silver proteinate that produces silver stains. Silver nitrate is used in astringents, in photography, hair dyes, chemical laboratory work, mirror manufacturing, and so forth. Silver nitrate leaves a tenacious black stain almost impossible to remove except by special treatment.
One method is to use a stock solution of iodine in potassium iodide (tincture of iodine). Dissolve 30g of potassium iodine in 30ml of water, add 37ml of iodine; stir the solution until the iodine is dissolved. Add water to a total volume of 600ml and store in a brown coloured bottle. Apply the above solution to the stain with a glass rod or other suitable instrument allowing it to remain for several minutes. Tie up a spoonful of sodium thiosulphate in a small piece of white cotton cloth, dip into a cold solution of ammonia and dab the iodine stain until the complete stain is removed; rinse well.
Silver stains also can be removed by spotting with a solution containing 62g of thiourea and 62g of citric acid per litre of water; again rinse well.
Chlorine bleach sometimes will eliminate silver nitrate stains, providing the material is heated afterwards and a solution of ammonia is used to remove the silver chloride that is formed. Use the bleach cold or the silver salt will accelerate the action of the bleach and drastically weaken the material wherever it is stained.
ASPHALT – Asphalt or mineral pitch is the residue from the evaporation or petroleum. It generally contains sulphur and nitrogenous ingredients, but is essentially composed of hydrocarbons. Asphalt is soluble in dry-cleaning solvents or acetone, but not in alcohol or water.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE ACETONE ON ACETATE OR TRIACETATE FABRICS
BEER – The light brown discolouration resulting from beer will in most cases be removed by the washing process, especially if the stain has not been allowed to remain on the fabric long. Traces that may remain on the fabric usually can be removed by a treatment with hypochlorite bleach for vegetable and synthetic fibres and hydrogen peroxide or sodium perborate for silk, wool and mohair fabrics.
BLOOD – The colour of blood stains is due to haemoglobin, a red colouring matter containing iron. It is a protein, as are albuminous stains, and therefore is coagulated, or “set” by heat. For this reason, it is important that in the first wash used for such classifications as surgical linens, the water temperature doe not exceed 38oc and that the treatment be long enough to remove the protein matter prior to the application of hot suds and rinses.
Usually, blood stains are eliminated by the washing process. The use of chlorine bleach aids in removing the haemoglobin stain. In some cases, a brown stain may have developed from the iron in the blood, and to remove this, use oxalic acid solution or a proprietary rust remover.
Commercial digesters are also quite valuable in aiding and removing blood stains. Follow directions on the container for the best results. The enzymes in these digesters are sensitive to heat and to alkaline conditions, another reason to follow directions. Use hydrogen peroxide when silk or wool is involved.
Blood albumin and organic iron sometimes produce stains that are never completely removed, but only lightened. The method usually used to handle such tenacious blood stains involves three procedures. First, soak in a milk soap solution, then wash normally except use twice as much bleach as usual, and finally to rid the load of the iron stains, place in a hot sour bath. The acid bath required up to 500g of acid compound (eg, oxalic, ammonium biflouride) per 50kg of washing load for about 10 minutes at 65o to 70oc .
If there are any remaining traces of the stain and they appear to be tannin in nature, use a commercial tannin remover.
If the remaining stain is black, very likely it is silver in nature.
If the first two treatments do not work, use a small amount of powdered sodium hydrosulphite or a sodium hydrosulphite solution and heat gently. Allow to stand for a few minutes and repeat the process if the stain is lightened by such treatment.
ACRIFLAVINE – These orange-yellow stains are very hard to remove. They sometimes respond to spotting with a solution of one part alcohol and one part glacial-acetic acid followed either by permanganate and hydrosulphite treatment or spotting with a purple titanous stripper.
BENZOIN TINCTURE – When fresh, benzoin tincture responds to spotting with acetone or alcohol. Old stains can be lightened by permanganate and hydrosulphite treatment.
CHLORHEXADINE (hibitane) – Chlorhexadine turns dark in contact with chlorine bleaches. Don’t use chlorine in 60oc operations, use an oxygen bleach (eg. peroxide or perborate) in the 80oc wash.
To reverse chlorhexadine stains occurring after chlorine bleach has been used, use a 0.25% solution of sodium bisulphate and soak for 20 minutes at 50oc.
GENTAIN VIOLET – To remove genetain violet stains, soak in a solution of equal parts alcohol and glacial acetic acid for 5 minutes, rinse thoroughly, and then immerse in a 0.5% solution of bleach.
IODINE – Stains are yellow or brown on unstarched work, but blue or black on starched work. Spot with a hot (65.5oc) solution of sodium thiosulphate (190g to 5ltrs).
MERCUROCHROME – Bleach usually removes mercurochrome. Spotting with a solution of equal parts of alcohol and glacial acetic acid may help.
MERTHIOLATE – Boil in a high temperature boil, as mentioned earlier.
PRONTOSIL – A half percent solution of bleach usually removes this stain.
SCARLET RED – Scarlet red dissolves in acetone or amyl acetate.
METHYLENE BLUE – Methylene blue dissolves in alcohol.
MILDEW – Mildew is a micro-organism, a fungus that stains and attacks textiles. Mildew frequently develops on damp pieces that have been stored for some time. It commonly is green, brown or yellow, but occasionally it is red, pink, purple or black.
Fresh, light mildew is removed in washing, especially if an oxidising agent is used. Deeper stains require soaking in potassium permanganate solution for a period, followed by immersing in a warm solution of sodium hydrosulphite. White cotton and linen may be treated with chlorine bleach with success.
Heavy mildew stains that have been present for some time generally attack fibres, an they require a rather harsh treatment for removal. Holes may develop during treatment; this is caused by the attacks of the micro-organisms and completed by the chemical degradation of the strong bleaching agent.
BUTTER OR MARGARINE – Butter or margarine stains are largely grease, although small amounts of salt and casein are present in addition to the usual fat. Butter and margarine usually are eliminated entirely by the washing process, with organic solvent such as dry cleaning solvent, or a volatile dry solvent.
CARBON PAPER – Remove carbon paper stain by using an oily type paint remover and volatile dry solvent. If there is only a small stain, place a towel or some blotting material under the stain and apply the oily type paint remover and work it into the stain and then flush with either a volatile dry solvent or dry cleaning fluid.
If facilities are available and the stain is large, it is advisable to spot the stained area with an oily type paint remover and then dry clean the garment prior to washing. Any residual stain can be removed by an oxidising bleach.
TOMATO SAUCE – Tomato sauce stains are removed during a normal washing process. If there is residual stain after washing, a commercial tannin remover usually produces the best results. Apply the tannin remover solution and dab or brush the stain and flush. Stubborn stains may require several applications of tannin remover and if the stain is especially stubborn an oxidising bleach may be necessary to remove the last traces.
CHEWING GUM – If an excessive quantity of chewing gum is present, remove as much as possible mechanically, provided the dry gum can be taken off without chafing or cutting the material. If available, an ice cube applied to the gum hardens it and makes it easier to remove. After removing as much as possible mechanically, place as absorbent pad under the stain and apply volatile dry solvent or dry cleaning solvent and work the stain gently with a bone spatula. As the solvent begins to affect the chewing gum gently scrape or roll it off the fabric. Usually any stain that remains is removed by normal washing.
COFFEE, COCOA and CHOCOLATE – Coffee stains normally are removed completely by the washing process. Any residual stains remaining may be removed by an oxidising bleach.
CHROMIC ACID – This material has been used in dental work for treating patients gums. It forms a yellowish stains on fabrics that is soluble in hydrofluoric acid and proprietary rust removers. Apply a dilute solution of four parts water and one part rust remover to the stain with a dropper. Rinse the fabric thoroughly afterwards to remove all traces of the hydrofluoric acid.
This treatment is not satisfactory for weighted silk or any metallic fabric.
Chromic acid will, if concentrated, cause serious fabric deterioration and may cause holes in articles received from a dentist office.
CONCRETE – This is an extremely hard stain to remove. Some success maybe obtained by boiling with EDTA and alkali (sodium metasilicate), followed by a normal wash.
CRAYON – Crayon stains, if heavy, are best removed by preliminary soaking in dry cleaning solvent. Soaking in dry cleaning solvent or if facilities are available, complete dry cleaning of the article will remove most of the grease and much of the colouring material. After dry cleaning or soaking in dry cleaning solvent, wash the garment in regular washing process, for the colour and type or article involved. If a residual stain remains and if the fabric is white (and not silk or wool), use chlorine bleach to remove the final traces. If an oxidising bleach is not successful, then use a reducing bleach in an attempt to remove the remaining stain. If silk and wool are involved, use hydrogen peroxide rather that chlorine bleach. If the article is coloured, check the colours reaction before applying either an oxidising or reducing bleach.
CREAM and ICE CREAM – Milk and cream are proteins. Handle in the same way as albuminous stains. Keep the first break at a low temperature, not over 38oc. Low water temperature or a high pH prevents setting protein stains.
In most instances, the above procedures will eliminate the stain completely. However, if the stain is heavy and stubborn, use a commercial digester. These are usually very successful.
Occasionally, table linen is encountered that contains heavy cream and grease stains. This may be present because of poor washing. Sometimes such stains are on fabric a considerable length of time before being sent for washing. Good results usually are obtained by placing such pieces in a net and suspending the net for several hours in a detergent solution and then giving the items a normal wash.
DYE and CONTACT DYE – Contact dye stains are most difficult to remove. It is impossible to identify the dye; therefore, the bleach steps in removal cannot be specific.
Some contact dye stains are removed by rewashing. In some instances, an oxidising bleach is necessary; in other instances; a reducing bleach is necessary. In some cases, it is almost impossible to remove contact dye stains. Some dyes removed from one type of fabric and contacted by another type of fabric are impossible to remove.
Removal of dye stains, at least on coloured material, is dependant upon the fastness of the original colour. Whenever possible, check and test colour (in an area where it will not show) with the agents you expect to use. A good sequence to use in stubborn dye stain removal is:
a) sodium hydrosulphiteb) chlorine bleachc) potassium permanganate followed by a treatment with a warm solution of sodium hydrosulphite and a proprietary rust remover
CAUTION: WHEN USING AN ACID WITH CHLORINE BLEACH, THE ACTION OF THE CHLORINE BLEACH IS CONSIDERABLY ACCELLERATED AND FABRIC DAMAGE CAN OCCUR QUICKLY
EGG – Egg stains are albuminous and normally are removed in washing. Refer to albuminous stains.
FELT TIPPED MARKER – Deal with stains from felt tipped markers and felt tipped pens in the same way as ink stains. Some of these stains are completely water soluble and are removed in washing. However, others are not water soluble and will tend to become set after washing and cannot be removed even with bleach. Whenever possible, work on and remove ink stains of any type, including marking inks, ballpoint pens and felt tipped pens on the reverse side. Some are removed in dry cleaning, others can be completely removed by an oxidising bleach such as chlorine or potassium permanganate followed by hydrosulphite and a proprietary rust remover.
NAIL POLISH – Nail polish may contain nitrocellulose or some other plastics material plus dye that has been dissolved in a suitable organic solvent. These solvents are most often acetone or amyl acetate; therefore, these are the best stain removers for this substance.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE ACETONE ON ACETATE OR TRIACETATE FIBRES
FLOOR WAX (PASTE) – Carnauba wax is used in many floor wax compounds. If the stained area is small, use dry cleaning solvent or a volatile dry solvent to dissolve the waxy material in the stain. Washing process often will remove the bulk of these waxes from the stained goods when a hot, wash formula is used. If residual traces remain after washing, use dry cleaning solvent or a volatile dry solvent to remove the remaining traces.
FLOOR WAX (LIQUID) – Liquid floor waxes usually contain compounds soluble in dry cleaning solvents or volatile dry solvents. These compounds are usually soluble or at least partially soluble and can be removed by alkaline solutions. The stain removal procedures are much the same as in paste floor wax.
If the stain is extensive, use solvents. If the stain is small, use a normal white work washing formula which should remove the stain or at least the major portion. Spot the remaining residue with dry cleaning solvent or volatile dry solvent.
FOOD DYE – Artificial food colourings are usually water soluble and are removed in washing.
If washing does not remove the stain, proceed as described as ALBUMIN removal.
FRUIT STAIN – Stains from fruit juices are ordinarily removed in washing. Cooked fruits and berry juices are more easily removed than raw juices. When they are not removed by laundering, use reducing or oxidising agents. Sodium hydrosulphite, a reducing bleach, may be used on all fabrics, hydrogen peroxide may be used on silk and wool as an oxidising bleach and chlorine bleach may be used on the other fibres. If coloured fabrics are involved, test to determine the effect of the bleach on the fabrics base colour.
GLUE – Glue has three general classifications, the protein-type, bone or fish glue, organic or white liquid glue, which usually is polyvinyl acetate, and epoxy glues;
a) Remove protein glues as other protein and albuminous substances.b) Remove polyvinyl acetate type glues with amyl acetate or acetone. Check fibre content and do not use acetone on acetate or triacetate fibres.c) The constituents or epoxy type glues come in two separate containers and require mixing. These glues may stain, but there is no removal procedure safe for fabrics.
GRASS – The green colour in grass is chlorophyll. Chlorophyll is an organic compound that frequently can be removed by washing, especially if an oxidising agent is used.
The use of a volatile dry solvent or amyl acetate will also aid in stain removal. After the use of amyl acetate or a volatile dry solvent, use a synthetic detergent and 28% acetic acid, and follow by applying a proprietary rust remover. As a final step, use an oxidising bleach. This removes most grass stains.
GREASE – Grease stains may consist of fatty acids, or mineral oils. They also may contain dirt and metallic particles. Bearing grease, for example may contain compounds of iron or other metal that will stain the fabric. Iron stain may be removed by hot solution of oxalic acid or one of the proprietary rust removers.
In many cases, washing eliminates grease stains. Old stains may require a preliminary softening with an oily type paint remover. Apply an oily type paint remover to soften the stains, then flush with a volatile dry solvent or with dry cleaning solvent.
Remove any remaining stain traces by treating with an alkaline soap bath. This is used safely on most colours and fabrics, but do not use on wool or silk.
INDELIBLE PENCIL – The stain of indelible pencil may be removed by washing. To remove remaining traces use an oxidising bleach such as chlorine on cotton and linen or potassium permanganate solution followed by sodium hydrosulphite and a proprietary rust remover.
Use hydrogen peroxide on silk or wool.
INK – There are many different inks and ink formulae. Some are completely water soluble, some are completely solvent soluble. Many contain both water soluble and solvent soluble products, but many contain some soluble pigment.
Ballpoint pen ink is similar to a printers ink in that it has a colour or pigment in an oil-base. The best approach is to treat ballpoint ink stains with a paint/oil/grease remover. Place an absorbent cloth under the stain and apply the paint/oil/grease remover sparingly; allow it to absorb into the cloth to prevent spreading. Flush the stain occasionally with volatile dry solvent or dry cleaning fluid.
A bone scraper may be used to loosen the ink, until no further bleeding occurs. After this, saturate the stain again with an oily type paint remover and dry clean. If dry cleaning facilities are not available, rinse the garment or fabric thoroughly with solvent and launder.
Treat residual stains with an oxidising or a reducing bleach, stripper or commercial product recommended for removal of ink stains.
Soaking overnight in a paint/oil/grease remover and then washing may be successful in some cases.
When ordinary inks cannot be removed by chlorine bleach or sodium hydrosulphite on cotton or linen, use a potassium permanganate solution and follow by a treatment with a hydrosulphite solution and a proprietary rust remover.
Some inks do contain iron and iron leaves a stain which may be removed with a proprietary rust remover. After these treatments, rinse the fabric thoroughly to remove all chemicals.
IODINE – When potassium in iodine (tincture or iodine) is dropped on unstarched material, a yellow or brown stain is formed that usually cannot be removed by washing. If starch is present, the stain is blue.
To remove, treat the stain with a warm 10% solution of sodium thiosulphate and rinse thoroughly.
IRON – Iron or rust stains are produced when hydrated ferrous or ferric oxide combine with ferric carbonate in varying proportions.
The stain may be removed in a warm dilute solution of oxalic acid or some other proprietary rust remover. Rinse carefully and thoroughly. Souring to pH 5 will not remove rust, it is necessary to over-sour. Restore the rinse to pH 5 before finishing.
CAUTION: DO NOT USE HYDROGEN FLUORIDE ON WEIGHTED SILK OR ANY METALLIC FABRIC. HYDROGEN FLUORIDE DISSOLVES METAL AND LEAVES A DISCOLOURATION IN THE AREA TREATED
LEATHER – Light leather stains, often are removed by washing. Deeper stains however, may require the use of an oxidising bleach such as chlorine. Use a solution of hydrogen peroxide or sodium hydrosulphite on wool or silk.
The use of a paint/grease remover followed by the application of a volatile dry solvent or dry cleaning fluid before washing may greatly aid removal of leather stains.
LIPSTICK and MAKEUP – These materials usually contain a dyestuff in an oil base. Washing usually will remove most of this material. These materials also can be removed by applying an oil type paint remover and flushing with a volatile solvent or with dry cleaning fluid. If there are numerous heavy stains, pre-spot with the oily type paint remover and dry clean the garment if you have dry cleaning facilities.
If colouring matter remains after washing or dry cleaning treatment, you may need to use an oxidising or a reducing bleach or a stripper. Treating with dilute potassium permanganate followed by warm sodium hydrosulphite and a proprietary rust remover aids removal of residual coloured stains.
MATCH – When stains from matches are not removed by washing, use chlorine bleach. If this does not remove the discolouration, use a dilute solution of potassium permanganate followed by warm sodium hydrosulphite and a proprietary rust remover. Rinse well after either treatment.
MEDICINAL GENERAL – Medical stains may be due to the presence of metallic salts, the presence of tannin or other organic compounds and dyes. Because of the great number and variety of medical stains no one method of removal removes all. Some stains are eliminated entirely by washing, especially when heated with as oxidising agent such as chlorine bleach.
MILK – These stains contain protein, oils and fats and are removed in the same manner as cream and ice cream.
MUD – Mud stains usually are removed by washing. Residual brown stains usually are due to the presence of iron. Remove these with warm or hot solution of oxalic acid or a proprietary rust remover. Rinse thoroughly after these treatments.
MUSTARD – The yellow colouring matter of mustard is turmeric, a natural yellow colouring material. Scrape excess mustard carefully from the fabric. Mustard stains usually are removed from fabric by the washing process. If residual stains do remain, treat with a tannin remover and rewash. If this is not completely successful, use a chlorine bleach. Use potassium permanganate solution followed by warm hydrosulphite and a proprietary rust remover on silk or wool.
Treat coloured pieces with tannin remover and rewash if mustard stains are not removed the first time. If there is still residual stain on coloured fabrics, test the colour before attempting to bleach.
PAINT, OIL BASE or LATEX – paint is composed of pigment mixed with drying oils, resins, plastics or latex and some type of volatile dry solvent or water. The composition of the paint base influences the ease of removal. Also, the age of the paint stain greatly influences success of removal. Old stains may be impossible to remove. The best removal procedure is soaking the stain for 15 to 30 minutes in an oily type paint remover to soften the hardened film.
If practical, after softening the stain with an oily type paint remover, break the stain up with a spatula or brush and dry clean the garment. This will remove a considerable amount of paint. Use this procedure several times to reduce a large build-up.
After there is no more removal on the dry side, use wet side procedures; apply a synthetic detergent and ammonia and dab with a spotting brush or work with a spatula. If a steam gum is available, place a towel underneath the stain and flush thoroughly with the steam gun. If no steam gun is available, launder the garment. Use this procedure repeatedly.
If after both dry side and wet side procedures have been used and a residual stain still remains, boil in a caustic solution if the fabric and colour can withstand the action of an alkaline bath. Prepare the alkaline bath with built detergent and water (2.4 g/L). The use of bleach may be helpful.
PARAFFIN – Paraffin frequently is removed by washing. If fabrics contain residual traces of paraffin, place them over a towel or absorbent fabric and flush a dry cleaning solvent on volatile dry solvent through the fabric. This should remove all paraffin.
PERSPIRATION – Perspiration stains usually are removed in washing. If residual stains remove after washing, they usually can be removed with chlorine bleach. Use a solution of potassium permanganate, followed by the application of sodium hydrosulphite and a proprietary rust remover on wool or silk.
Fresh perspiration is acidic, but with decomposition by bacterial action perspiration can become highly alkaline and is destructive to cotton, rayon, wool or silk. It also is damaging to some dyes. Damage to dyes cannot be corrected by stain removal processes. Re-dyeing may be a solution.
RESIN – Resinous substances are generally removed by the use of organic solvents such as dry cleaning fluid, volatile dry solvent, turpentine or alcohol. As turpentine and alcohol are flammable, keep them away from heat and flames. Soften stains by soaking in a solvent and carefully agitate with a bone spatula. After the stain is soft, flush with solvent. If facilities are available, dry clean. Use a regular washing process to complete the cleaning of the soiled article.
MOTOR OIL – Motor oil stains resist washing, so the use of an organic solvent is required. If the stain is heavy, apply an oily type paint remover and flush the area with either dry cleaning solvent or a volatile dry solvent. If facilities are available and the stain is rather large, dry cleaning the article after it has been thoroughly saturated with oily type paint remover. Road tar contains insoluble particles. Use chlorine bleach or a reducing bleach such as hydrosulphite.
RUBBER CEMENT – Rubber cement stains generally can be removed with toluene or benzene.
WARNING: TOLUENE AND BENZENE ARE FLAMABLE, SO USE WITH EXTREME CARE. KEEP AWAY FROM OPEN FLAMES OR EXCESSIVE HEAT AND AVOID BREATHING FUMES
SCORCH – Scorch is very common. It’s usually light tan or brown depending upon it’s severity. If scorching is severe, there is charring fibre damage.
Very light scorch stains are removed by washing. Hydrogen peroxide bleach is helpful if the stain is not severe. If the discolouration is heavy, fabric damage has occurred and removal of the stain is impossible.
SHOE POLISH – Washing generally removes most shoe polish stains. The washing process normally removes shoe polish stains. Dry cleaning solvent or volatile dry solvent also may be used in removal of these stains.Many shoe polishes contain a solvent, nitrobenzene. If stain is not completely removed by washing, apply an oily type paint remover and flush with dry cleaning solvent or a volatile dry solvent.
If a trace of colour remains, use chlorine bleach on white cotton linen. Use potassium permanganate, followed by sodium hydrosulphite and a proprietary rust remover on silk and wool.
CAUTION: CONSIDER THE FASTNESS OF THE BASE COLOUR. MOST DYESTUFFS ARE NOT RESISTANT TO OXIDISING AND REDUCING AGENTS
SILVER NITRATE – See Argyrol.
SILVER STAINS – Silver stains are common stains in hospitals. They are not easy to remove after the stains has set or aged. Silver stains are invisible at first but the grey colour develops on standing and especially after washing. A simple method of removal is to spot liberally with a solution of tincture of iodine. Allow this to stand for a few minutes, then follow with a solution of sodium thiosulphate (190g to 5ltrs). This is actually “photographers’ hypo’ and can be purchased easily. Commercial preparations for spot-treating of silver stains are available.
SYRUP – Syrup stains are usually removed by washing as sugar is water soluble. If a fruit juice or food colouring is in the syrup, use a suitable oxidising agent, such as chlorine bleach for cotton and linen or peroxide for silk and wool. A solution of potassium permanganate, followed by the use of sodium hydrosulphite, and a proprietary rust remover, is valuable on either cotton, linen, silk or wool.
TANNIN – Tannin stains are among the most difficult to remove. Stains from coffee or tea often spilled on garments or fabrics. Fresh tannin stains usually are removed by washing. If the stain has not set in the fabric, use a commercial tannin remover. If a residual trace remains, consider the use or reducing bleach such as hydrosulphite.
TAR – These stains contain benzene hydrocarbons and free carbon. They are usually extremely difficult or impossible to remove. They leave a dark residual stain. Organic solvents usually are the best agents for removing such stains, as are solvents such as dry cleaning fluid or volatile dry solvent and oily type paint and grease removers. If the fabric can take the action of a bone spatula or dabbing with a spotting brush, this may help remove the stain. Applying a concentrated soap solution after the treatment with solvent may be helpful.
TEA – See Tannin.
TOBACCO – Tobacco stains contain a natural brown colouring matter. Molasses may have been added to chewing tobacco. If the stain in not removed by laundering, treat with a suitable oxidising agent; such as chlorine bleach. Most tobacco stains are soluble in methyl or ethyl alcohol. Treat the stain with this solvent and immerse in an oxidising agent.
TYPEWRITER INK – This stain usually can be removed easily with organic solvents such as dry-cleaning solvent or volatile dry solvent. There is some pigment matter that may require the use of an oily type paint remover to lubricate and remove the final traces of the stain. After all bleeding has stopped on the dry side, use the regular laundering, and an oxidising bleach such as sodium hypochlorite.
Use potassium permanganate and sodium hydrosulphite, followed by a proprietary rust remover on wool and silk.
URINE – Urine stains usually are removed in normal washing. If residual stains remain, use a suitable oxidising agent such as chlorine bleach or potassium permanganate, followed by sodium hydrosulphite and a proprietary rust remover.
VOMIT – The colour depends upon what was ingested. It usually has a stiff dull surface or a white powdery surface.
Normal washing usually will remove this stain. If it is a large area and the build up is very heavy, break up the solid portion with a spotting brush or spatula before washing. If the stain is not completely removed after washing, a digester will help removal. After using a digester, re-launder the article.
WINE – Wine stains are usually blue, brown or purple and normally are removed by washing. A residual colour is due to the fruit juices and can be removed with sodium hydrosulphite, a reducing bleach. If the reducing bleach does not remove the stain, use an oxidising bleach.